As important as your car's suspension and just as influential in its handling, your driving seat is of important to you being able to control your car and maneuvering it the way you want it to. Although some may argue there are better things to spend your money on first, the seat is definitely in the top 10 list of things you must replace if you are serious in being able to drive your car. A big reason for this would be because you won't be able to control your car properly because you keep slipping out of your factory seat while going around turns. The factory seat was designed for comfort and ease of entering/exiting the car, holding you in place while to fly around a turn at over 60kph.
There are two types of bucket seats available as upgrades to your car interior/handling.
-Full Bucket: Holds you firmly in place in the turns. Same style as seen in race cars.
-Reclining Bucket: Holding capability is a lot better than factory seats, but less than the Full Bucket. Much more comfortable and easier to live with than a full bucket. Capable of reclining.
There are a variety of companies specializing better holding sports seats available. In Japan, the two biggest brands are Bride and Recaro. Both brands make seats of the highest quality, and both have large and loyal user/customer bases supporting them.
Bride is most well known for their Zeta line of Full Buckets and the Brix Reclining Bucket. Recaro on the other hand, the SP-G Full Bucket and the SRIII Reclining Bucket.
Commonly heard opinions on the two competing brands is that the Recaro SP-G is more comfortable than the Bride Zeta, however the Bride has much better holding capability than the Recaro.
Being an owner of an older model Bride Zeta II, I like the looks of it and am satisfied by its comfort. I have been able to go on long 3 ~ 4hr drives without getting uncomfortable. I have never owned a Recaro before but have sat in one at the recent Tokyo Auto Salon, and I have to say, the few second sit-down in their newer model Full Bucket made me want to switch over.
Bride and Recaro are highly recommended and before making a purchase I highly suggest trying each out before making a decision.
Check out what we have to offer HERE
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Monday, February 9, 2009
LSD Limited Slip Differential
The Limited Slip Differential (LSD) is the device that sends the power from the engine drivetrain to the wheels. Unlike the differentials coming from the factory, these differentials don't limit the amount of power transferred to one tire or the other. Instead, LSD's send power to both left and right side equally, resulting in a sportier ride, and faster acceleration.
In the Aftermarket tuning world, there are three types of LSD's:
1 Way
2 Way
1.5 Way
The 1 Way LSD is commonly recommended for drivers of competing in traditional racing. The LSD is engaged, sending power to both wheels during acceleration, however that power deliver stops when you let off of the gas.
The 2 Way LSD is engaged at all times regardless of whether or not the the throttle is on or off. The type of LSD is recommended for FR platforms and on the rear of 4WD platforms. The 2 Way is favored among drivers into Drifting and those who like to cruise up and down the mountainside with a tail happy car.
The 1.5 Way LSD is designed to have the best of both worlds. It is engaged during acceleration and is mildly engaged (not completely like the 2 Way) when the throttle is off.
Depending upon the type of things you do or wish to do with your car, you will need a specific LSD from the listed and explained types above. Great brands to get your LSD from include but aren't limited to: Kaaz, Cusco, ATS and others.
Check Out a few examples of Limited Slip Differentials HERE
In the Aftermarket tuning world, there are three types of LSD's:
1 Way
2 Way
1.5 Way
The 1 Way LSD is commonly recommended for drivers of competing in traditional racing. The LSD is engaged, sending power to both wheels during acceleration, however that power deliver stops when you let off of the gas.
The 2 Way LSD is engaged at all times regardless of whether or not the the throttle is on or off. The type of LSD is recommended for FR platforms and on the rear of 4WD platforms. The 2 Way is favored among drivers into Drifting and those who like to cruise up and down the mountainside with a tail happy car.
The 1.5 Way LSD is designed to have the best of both worlds. It is engaged during acceleration and is mildly engaged (not completely like the 2 Way) when the throttle is off.
Depending upon the type of things you do or wish to do with your car, you will need a specific LSD from the listed and explained types above. Great brands to get your LSD from include but aren't limited to: Kaaz, Cusco, ATS and others.
Check Out a few examples of Limited Slip Differentials HERE
Sunday, February 1, 2009
Meters and Gauges
Making changes to your car is what tuning is all about. When switching out exhaust pieces for larger diameter replacements, or switching out injectors for better fuel delivery, you are changing the amount of power your car produces or amount of fuel it is able to drink. To help monitor the vitals of your engine, companies like HKS, Trust, Apex'i make meters/gauges to help you keep track of your temperature, pressure, and boost levels. The necessity and popularity of aftermarket meters/gauges are so high, there are companies that specialize in strictly making gauges. Some examples of these companies include Defi, Pivot, Stri, and others.
The following are the most common meter/gauge types available:
-Boost Pressure
-Oil Pressure
-Fuel Pressure
-Oil Temperature
-Water Temperature
-Exhaust Temperature
-Tachometer
Check out a few examples here: HERE
The following are the most common meter/gauge types available:
-Boost Pressure
-Oil Pressure
-Fuel Pressure
-Oil Temperature
-Water Temperature
-Exhaust Temperature
-Tachometer
Check out a few examples here: HERE
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Tires
The four chunks of rubber keeping your car on the road and going where you want them to go...
Like everything else on the car that can be interchanged with good and even better parts, tires can be bought in various tread patterns, sizes, brands, and application types. For the performance enthusiast and serious circuit racers, there are the Sports and Racing tires, also commonly called Street Radials and S Tires.
Like Wheels tires also a coded jumble of numbers and letters to decipher to figure out what it is you are buying.
For example: 215/45ZR17 87W
215: The tread width of the tire
45: The height of the sidewall (side of the tire)
ZR: The construction quality of the tire. In this case, the tire is a Z-Rated Radial able to go to speeds beyond 240km/h without falling apart.
17: The size wheels the tire is compatible with.
87: The Load Index...
W: a repeat of the construction quality/speed durability.
If this description didn't really do it for you, go HERE for a better description + charts.
When looking around for sports tires in Japan, the well established brands are the first to come to mind first. Bridgestone/Potenza, Yokohama/Advan, Dulop/Direzza, Falken/Azenis, and Goodyear. However, with the high price for tires (Drifting especially), there is a growing market for cheaper alternatives from other parts of Asia. Federal, Nankang, Hankook, Achillies ATR, and others have been able to establish themselves as reliable brands, perhaps not quite being able to match the Japanese tire makers' quality, but are able to make up for that with pricing. Among Drag Racers, importing of American tires are common. Nitto, Hoosier, and Micky Thompson are common brand favorites among the list.
Depending on what you are using your car for, street/drag/drift/rally/circuit, there is a tire out there being made specifically to fit your needs.
Check out a couple examples HERE
Like everything else on the car that can be interchanged with good and even better parts, tires can be bought in various tread patterns, sizes, brands, and application types. For the performance enthusiast and serious circuit racers, there are the Sports and Racing tires, also commonly called Street Radials and S Tires.
Like Wheels tires also a coded jumble of numbers and letters to decipher to figure out what it is you are buying.
For example: 215/45ZR17 87W
215: The tread width of the tire
45: The height of the sidewall (side of the tire)
ZR: The construction quality of the tire. In this case, the tire is a Z-Rated Radial able to go to speeds beyond 240km/h without falling apart.
17: The size wheels the tire is compatible with.
87: The Load Index...
W: a repeat of the construction quality/speed durability.
If this description didn't really do it for you, go HERE for a better description + charts.
When looking around for sports tires in Japan, the well established brands are the first to come to mind first. Bridgestone/Potenza, Yokohama/Advan, Dulop/Direzza, Falken/Azenis, and Goodyear. However, with the high price for tires (Drifting especially), there is a growing market for cheaper alternatives from other parts of Asia. Federal, Nankang, Hankook, Achillies ATR, and others have been able to establish themselves as reliable brands, perhaps not quite being able to match the Japanese tire makers' quality, but are able to make up for that with pricing. Among Drag Racers, importing of American tires are common. Nitto, Hoosier, and Micky Thompson are common brand favorites among the list.
Depending on what you are using your car for, street/drag/drift/rally/circuit, there is a tire out there being made specifically to fit your needs.
Check out a couple examples HERE
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Coilovers/Suspension
The legs of your car. The suspension is as important as the engine to making your car a great driving machine. It is what keeps your car on the road and assists your steering to controlling the car when flying around turns and on the straights.
A single coilover is composed of the following:
-Upper Mount: The plate which bolts onto the frame of the car. Also adjusts camber for Strut type suspension.
-Spring: Supports the weight of the car. Springs come in all sizes and Spring Rates (measure of how hard a spring is. Normally shown in kgf/mm measurements.)
-Lower Seat: Holds up the bottom of the Spring. Height adjustment is made with the raising and lowering of the Lower Seat in Coilover Suspension kits that are not Fully Adjustable.
-Bracket Lock Seat: Instead of raising/lowering the Lower Seat in your standard suspension to raise/lower the ride height of your car, the Bracket Lock Seat does the job without having to worry about messing with the spring in Fully Adjustable Suspension Kits.
-Damper: A case filled with oil and gas. A piston floating within the Damper is pushed down and rises up, resulting in "dampening."
There are many types of Coilover Suspension kits out there to choose from for any and every application. From the circuit only kit for the GT race machine to the family friendly van, there is something for everyone.
Check Out examples of Coilover Suspension Here
A single coilover is composed of the following:
-Upper Mount: The plate which bolts onto the frame of the car. Also adjusts camber for Strut type suspension.
-Spring: Supports the weight of the car. Springs come in all sizes and Spring Rates (measure of how hard a spring is. Normally shown in kgf/mm measurements.)
-Lower Seat: Holds up the bottom of the Spring. Height adjustment is made with the raising and lowering of the Lower Seat in Coilover Suspension kits that are not Fully Adjustable.
-Bracket Lock Seat: Instead of raising/lowering the Lower Seat in your standard suspension to raise/lower the ride height of your car, the Bracket Lock Seat does the job without having to worry about messing with the spring in Fully Adjustable Suspension Kits.
-Damper: A case filled with oil and gas. A piston floating within the Damper is pushed down and rises up, resulting in "dampening."
There are many types of Coilover Suspension kits out there to choose from for any and every application. From the circuit only kit for the GT race machine to the family friendly van, there is something for everyone.
Check Out examples of Coilover Suspension Here
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Wheels and Rims
"If a car was a woman, the wheels would be her tits." Anonymous
Every tuned car has to sit on a decent set of wheels/rims. Like every other aspect of car tuning, there are a wide selection of wheels available at your disposal. Lightweight, Forged, Cast, One Piece, Two Piece, Three Piece, Chrome, Bronze, etc. mix and match and you get endless possibilities. I haven't even started to mention offsets! With makers like Rays Engineering, SSR, Work, Watanabe, and others, you are bound to find something that both you'll like. When purchasing wheels, there are obvious things you need to know.
The Size. How big are the wheels you want to purchase?
The Width. Width is normally labeled as J or JJ. Wider the wheel, the bigger/wider the tire you'll need to wrap'em in, meaning more money. On the good side though, increased traction, stability, and better looks when coupled with streched tires (wrapping big wheels with small tires)
The Offset. How far the wheel face (the part with the design) is from the center of the wheel. The closer the wheel face is to the outside, the higher the positive offset and vice versa for negative offset.
The Bolt Pattern (commonly labeled as P.C.D. or Pitch Circle Diameter). This is the specifications of the part of the wheels that goes onto your car's wheel hub bolts. The number of hub bolts and space between them determines the P.C.D. you need for your car.
As an example, 17 x 7.5J 5 114.3 +48 means:
17in wheel
7.5J wheel width
5-Lug with a 114.3 bolt pattern
+48 offset
Know the specifications of your wheels and also how wide of a wheel/rim or low of an offset you can put underneath your fenders before buying wheels/rims. That way you will be more satisfied with your ride instead of having the headache of not being able to fit crazy sizes or being mad because you bought too conservative an offset, thereby killing the overall look of your car.
Check Out examples of Wheels and Rims Here
Every tuned car has to sit on a decent set of wheels/rims. Like every other aspect of car tuning, there are a wide selection of wheels available at your disposal. Lightweight, Forged, Cast, One Piece, Two Piece, Three Piece, Chrome, Bronze, etc. mix and match and you get endless possibilities. I haven't even started to mention offsets! With makers like Rays Engineering, SSR, Work, Watanabe, and others, you are bound to find something that both you'll like. When purchasing wheels, there are obvious things you need to know.
The Size. How big are the wheels you want to purchase?
The Width. Width is normally labeled as J or JJ. Wider the wheel, the bigger/wider the tire you'll need to wrap'em in, meaning more money. On the good side though, increased traction, stability, and better looks when coupled with streched tires (wrapping big wheels with small tires)
The Offset. How far the wheel face (the part with the design) is from the center of the wheel. The closer the wheel face is to the outside, the higher the positive offset and vice versa for negative offset.
The Bolt Pattern (commonly labeled as P.C.D. or Pitch Circle Diameter). This is the specifications of the part of the wheels that goes onto your car's wheel hub bolts. The number of hub bolts and space between them determines the P.C.D. you need for your car.
As an example, 17 x 7.5J 5 114.3 +48 means:
17in wheel
7.5J wheel width
5-Lug with a 114.3 bolt pattern
+48 offset
Know the specifications of your wheels and also how wide of a wheel/rim or low of an offset you can put underneath your fenders before buying wheels/rims. That way you will be more satisfied with your ride instead of having the headache of not being able to fit crazy sizes or being mad because you bought too conservative an offset, thereby killing the overall look of your car.
Check Out examples of Wheels and Rims Here
Monday, January 5, 2009
Exhaust
Like the Front Pipe and Outlet Pipe, replacing your car's Stock OEM Exhaust or Muffler is a great basic upgrade to freeing up horsepower and getting a better sound out of your car.
Another great thing about the exhaust is that it counts as both a power upgrade and an exterior modification. The rear of your car will look more aggressive with the addition of the exhaust sticking out from underneath your rear bumper.
And now for the sound. The way your car will sound and feel will depend on which you choose out of the abundant exhaust out there. Exhaust pieces come in a wide variety of shapes and materials. The exhaust tip shape can come in the popular Canister-style, the quieter, uglier Oval-type, and the simple looking Straight-type. Then you have the Main Pipe which is connected to the catalyzer and runs towards the exhaust tip. Piping diameter will be larger than Stock to add power to the car while resonators aka pre-mufflers will also be welded in to reduce the overall sound coming from the exhaust...or not. Composition material commonly is Steel, Stainless Steel, Titanium, and if going custom, even Aluminum!
Those who want ear splitting sound, Full Straight Exhaust. For those who want a little bit of oomph in their ride minus the sound, there are exhausts packed with glass fiber wool and resonators to keep sound to a minimum.
Because I love my car's exhaust note, a full straight exhaust is for me. No muffler, no resonator. The uninterrupted, raw sound of an car is amazing to hear and reminds me every-time why I love cars.
Check Out examples of the Exhaust/Mufflers Here
Another great thing about the exhaust is that it counts as both a power upgrade and an exterior modification. The rear of your car will look more aggressive with the addition of the exhaust sticking out from underneath your rear bumper.
And now for the sound. The way your car will sound and feel will depend on which you choose out of the abundant exhaust out there. Exhaust pieces come in a wide variety of shapes and materials. The exhaust tip shape can come in the popular Canister-style, the quieter, uglier Oval-type, and the simple looking Straight-type. Then you have the Main Pipe which is connected to the catalyzer and runs towards the exhaust tip. Piping diameter will be larger than Stock to add power to the car while resonators aka pre-mufflers will also be welded in to reduce the overall sound coming from the exhaust...or not. Composition material commonly is Steel, Stainless Steel, Titanium, and if going custom, even Aluminum!
Those who want ear splitting sound, Full Straight Exhaust. For those who want a little bit of oomph in their ride minus the sound, there are exhausts packed with glass fiber wool and resonators to keep sound to a minimum.
Because I love my car's exhaust note, a full straight exhaust is for me. No muffler, no resonator. The uninterrupted, raw sound of an car is amazing to hear and reminds me every-time why I love cars.
Check Out examples of the Exhaust/Mufflers Here
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